These food and restaurant pages are part of Paradoxplace (about Paradoxplace).  In addition to its restaurant and food pages, Paradoxplace contains over 7,000 photographs covering much of Italy. Spain and Portugal, France, and Britain, and other places as diverse as Constantinople, and Mughal India.  Paradoxplace also contains extensive illustrated chronologies, maps etc featuring  the interesting movers and shakers and places in the worlds of history, art and thinking - from the end of the Western Roman Empire (about 500AD), through the boomtimes of the high middle ages (1200s) and the  Italian Renaissance (1400s) to the entry of the Nation States of Early Modern Europe (around 1600AD).  Wherever possible, looking, eating and story telling are combined - apart from the special food pages linked above, many of the other pages have food photos and restaurant and hotel notes.


We are not commercially sponsored (but have nothing against this in principle!), and we make no charge for any of the listings and recommendations - the only criteria are those of interest and that we or our friends have enjoyed them.   Feedback is encouraged, as there is only so much one person can eat and photograph in a lifetime - email afletch at paradoxplace dot com.


These guides were researched in the early 2000s .... not much has changed for many of the restaurants except many now have websites, which makes it easy to check information about them.  We can't vouch for up to date accuracy, so you should check first.




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Chianti & Siena Restaurants, Food and Wine


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Castellina in Chianti


Directions below are all based on Castellina in Chianti as the ‘central reference point’.  Check to see if closing days have changed and always try to book!


Gelato Bar at the main "Fiveways" junction at the north end of Castellina.


This is probably the best Italian ice cream you they will ever have - believe us!!  They also serve it in containers to take home.


As a matter of interest this is a very ancient Etruscan crossroads - the N-S road linking Florence and Siena, and the E-W road linking  Perugia and Volterra.  Forget it - just enjoy the ice cream!



Tre Porte, Castellina,

C Tue,

0577 74 11 63




link to photo page


On the main street in Castellina, diagonally across from the church.  Now run by the Baldini family - Roberta (front of house) and her brother Giovanni (backstage).  Friendly service, pleasant atmosphere and excellent food (including pizzas).  So good, in fact, that it has been our "house restaurant" since 2000.

al Gallopapa, Castellina,

C Mon,

0577 74 29 39

Charismatic service under the direction of owner Tiziano in a couple of large atmospheric cellars under the east  walls of Castellina (entry from via delle Volte).    High quality small portions of food with ever escalating prices, but well spoken of (including now by Michelin we believe) - especially by those in need of a romantic setting.  Web site


La Torre, Castellina,

C Fri,

0577 74 02 36




The genuine Tuscan article and always full for its never changing menu!  At our last visit it was completely lacking in energy though the food was still OK and the customers keep trooping in.

Albergaccio, Castellina,

C Sun,

0577 74 10 42

San Donato Road - more upmarketly ambitious and expensive (one of the few to be found in Michelin), but the food is really good as is the service, and the restored beamed / tiled rooms are very attractive.  Web site

Il Tinello,

C Monday,

0577 74 29 04

On the edge of town on the road to Siena.   Value for money but the food quality is  variable.


To the North East (including Radda, Volpaia and Lamole)

La Peghera di Baccio,

Viale XX Settembre No 23, Radda

C Thursday,

0577 73 9008

In 2007 run by our special friend Flavio d'Auria and Serena Pucci, with young Romanian chef Ivanof Cătăzin assisted by Serena's Mum to give Cucina Contadina grounding.  They are an outstandingly nice group of people, and also good at what they do, judging by the enjoyable meal we ate there just after it reopened under the new team (October 2007) - excellent soup and the best cinghiale casserole yet in a pleasant upstairs Tuscan beamed room.  Since then we have returned and enjoyed squid ink pasta with prawns, spaghetti with a ragu made tastily different with a few (blue?)berries, rabbit, and quails with a mushroom stuffing.  All very good.  Well worth a visit.

Osteria le Panzanelle, Lucarelli,

C ,

0577 733511

Web Site:

The Osteria le Panzanelle is owned and run jointly by Nada Michelassi (front of house and who speaks excellent English) and Silvia Bonechi, who is the chef behind the excellent food at reasonable prices which has made the Osteria a popular eating spot since it started up just as the US dollar started down just a few years ago.  In winter 2006 the pear and pecorino filled ravioli was memorable, but all the pasta is good as is the BBQd meat.  Lucarelli is on the "valley road" across to Radda from south of Panzano - no views, just excellent food!



Ristoro di Lamole, Lamole,

C Wednesdays,

0558 54 70 50,





link to Lamole photo page


Since taking over in 1992 Filippo Masini and Paolo di Mantovanelli have created one of the most enjoyable eating experiences in the region.   To get there turn E near Greve on the Greve to Panzano road and follow the signs to Lamole.  You will find the setting to end all settings, excellent food (with menu changes every week),  a high level of friendly energy (and a staff that speaks English and German as well as Italian), and the Lamole di Lamole Riserva and Grappa are in most years worth the trip on their own.  On winter Sundays when the tourists have gone, you will find it full of Italians enjoying lunch - always a good sign! 




La Bottega di Carla Barucci, Volpaia,

C Tuesdays,

0577 73 80 01,


The Barucci family consists (2004) of father Oriano (vegetables and salami), mother Gina (pasta, ribollita etc), elder daughter Carla (driving force and a master of old culinary methods - also gives cooking lessons), and younger sister Paola (who runs the wine bar opposite).


Link to Volpaia Photo Page


One of the best cucina contadina around.  The hard working Carla (right) produces mouth watering pastas and casseroles.  The winter 2002 menu included spinach / ricotta filled ravioli with sage butter, tagliatelle with a black tartufo sauce, and an unusual cinghale casseroled with olives (all to die for).  Spring 2004, and the ravioli remained the best, this time accompanied by a rabbit tartufo casserole.  Autumn 2006, more ravioli and a rolled rabbit with nutty ? sauce and shaved tartufo nero - this time eaten on the new terrace. 


You can also tour the olive presses and winery (0577 738766) before (or after) lunch.  Volpaia can be reached by a dirt road from Panzano (with some memorable photo opportunities), or take the sealed road a bit further south following the valley almost to Radda, and go left and up the hill.






Ristorante Il Poggio, Poggio San Polo,

C Monday,

0577 74 61 35,

Out of the way good food (off the road south from Rada to Lecci).

Ristorante Malborghetto, Lecchi in Chianti,

C Tuesday,

0577 74 62 01

In the village of Lecchi, south of Radda.

Osteria Il Papavero, Barbischio, Nr Gaiole,

C Monday and Tuesday Lunch,

0577 74 90 63

Near the Chianti League town of Gaiole.

Ristorante Badia a Coltibuono, Nr Gaiole,

C ,

0577 74 90 31

Part of the cooking school, accommodation, foodie complex run in the old Vallombrosian Abbey (the name means "abbey of the good harvest") by a lady with the surname Medici, though the relationship to anything really Medici is VERY extremely tenuous as both the main and cadet branches of the family died out centuries ago.


Osteria del Castello, Brolio,

C Thursday,

0577 74 71 94


Home of Barone Bettino Ricasoli (1809-1880), Prime Minister of Italy after Cavour during the unification, then in 1874 the definer (and enforcer) of the Chianti Classico formula for drinkable red wine (up to then the main problem with red was making it drinkable - the quality bit came later).  Allow time to walk up to the Manor House Castle and enjoy one of the best views around from the terrace - particularly lovely on a late autumn afternoon (right).  The front walls of the main building still exhibit the damage inflicted by advancing British 8th Army in WWII.


And if you want to rent a nearby villa (originally part of the Ricasoli estates) with an excellent reputation, try this link.



To the North

Pietrafitta, N of Castellina,

C ,

0577 74 11 23

Panzano Road from Castellina.  Good reports.

Il Vescovino, Panzano,

C Tuesday,

055 85 24 64

Generally recommended in the books, but rumoured to be overpriced.

Oltre il Giardino Trattoria, Panzano

C ,

055 85 28 28

Great terrace for the good weather times.


To the North and  West

Osteria alla Piazza, Piazza,

C Monday,

0577 73 35 80

Go left off rd from Castellina to Panzano (signposted "Piazza") shortly before Panzano.  Best time to enjoy is sitting outside ("under canvas") on an early summer or autumn night, but it's so good that it's worth visiting at any time of year.  Always full - make sure to book.

Pestello, Loc S Antonio al Ponte,

C Wednesday,

0577 74 06 71

Down the winding Poggibonsi road from Castellina.  Good roast / barbecued meats.

La Locanda di Pietracupa,

C Tuesday,

0558 07 24 00

On the right as you approach San Donato from Castellina.  Excellent food - in fact probably one of the the best choices - but don't expect chatty waiters!

La Toppa, San Donato,

C Monday,

0558 07 29 00

Not your charismatic restaurant design but it does (or did in 2000) have your charismatic Italian family team - Mama (kitchen) Papa (front of house) son (also front of house and the English speaker!) the food is ok and San Donato is enjoyable to wander through.



Osteria di Passignano,

C Sunday,

0558 07 12 78

link to Badia a Passignano photo page


A 2001 addition to the Antinori wine outlet in Badia a Passignano.  Very good quality, very full price!  A more down to earth (and less expensive) alternative is to lunch under the pergola at the pub opposite (called Ristorante la Scuderia).  It's probably more fun to go a bit further to find the next entry (and on Sundays you don't get any other choice - a rare example of a Chianti restaurant closed for Sunday lunch !).


Whether or not you choose to eat in Badia a Passignano, your camera deserves to visit it - special challenge is to find where the photo on the right was taken from!






La Cantinetta di Rignana,

C Tuesday,

0558 52 60 1

link to photo page


Follow signs to the right to Rignana from first junction as you leave Badia a Passignano going towards Greve / Panzano.  Finally, at the end of a long rough "lane road", you will reach your goal! Inside you will find the picture book Tuscan farmhouse room with a large fire in winter, and outside a peaceful vineyard surrounding the warm weather outside eating area.  Especially fun for winter Sunday lunch in the company of Italian family outings.


2006 - following a change of ownership the outside area has been upgraded, the patriarch barbequer has moved on and the prices have gone up, but the setting of course remains beautiful.  The photos here were taken prior to these changes.


La Castellana, Montefioralle,

C ,


Near the top of the significant hill from Greve to Montefioralle.

La Trattoria del Pesce, Bargino,

C Wednesday,

0558 24 90 45

The fish place - try the crayfish with spaghetti accompanied be a le Marche or Sicilian dry white, but it’s all excellent, filled with energy, serviced from the smallest restaurant kitchen in Chianti, packed full of stylish Italians from Florence (always book) and pricey! 


Da Stefano

"Solo Pesce, Solo Fresco, Solo la Sera"

On the via Senese (No 271), south of Florence (between Certosa and Florence)


THE OTHER fish place - a bit less fashionable and much better value for money.


Dom Paradox gets stuck into the seafood platter at Da Stefano - Nov 07




La Tenda Rossa, 9/14 Piazza del Monumento, San Casciano,

C Sun, Mon Lunch,

055 82 61 32

One of three restaurants in this listing in the top twenty ("Tre Forcette") group of the 2003 Gambero Rosso guide to the top 2,000 restaurants in Italy.




Osteria del Vicario, Certaldo Alto,

C Wednesday,

0571 66 82 28

In good weather the balcony views (to San Gimignano) are impressive, as is the quality and presentation of the food.

La Mandragola,

Via Berignano 58, San Gimignano


0577 940377  


Enter Porta S Giovanni, go left into via Pozuolo then right into via Berignano.  The photo on the right shows their (2007) Tuscan bean soup.

Osteria il Castello, San Gimignano

On the lower edge of the Piazza della Cisterna (the out of season public space for a coffee).  An old and  attractively set up hotel space, and not the rip off one might expect in this location! And with a well situated balcony for the warmer months. 



San Gimignano - November 2007



To the S, SW and SE


Osteria di Fonterutoli,

C Tuesday,

0577 74 04 76








Has now (2007) moved to a new location up the hill, and the food is said to have got better as well!  The hamlet of Fonterutoli is on the main road from Castellina to Siena.  The photo shows the hamlet of  Fonterutoli with the two great towers of Siena in the distance (not the view from the restaurant, which doesn't have one). 


Fonterutoli Chianti Classico wine is consistently excellent and better value than many of the Riservas around the area.  You can also rent an appartamento in the hamlet.


Taverna del Chianti, Vagliagli, C Monday,

0577 32 25 32

Pleasant restaurant just round the back of the little piazza.

Il Pozzo, Monteriggione,

C Sun evening & Mon,

0577 30 41 27

The fortified village of Monteriggione started life as one of a series of Sienese Ghibelline hill forts in 1213 (and is described by Dante in the "Divine Comedy").  Il Pozzo is an excellent restaurant in the Piazza.  Our last visit embraced pici (the Sienese version of spaghetti), cinghiale chops (a restaurant rarity) and prunes in red wine.  Cars are not allowed inside the walls, but there is a (badly signposted) upper car park which avoids a long hike up the hill.  The village is more picturesquely viewed from outside the walls in the direction of Abbadia Isola.

The Bar dell'Orso ("bear) at Monteriggione

Has become the Chianti place of choice for a top class bread, meat and cheese etc combinations and glass of whatever.  Right on the 4-coursie Monteriggione freeway exit, at lunch time it is as busy and alive as any city sandwich bar - and you don't have to stick with a pane con prosciutto e mozzarella e pomadoro filling (but if you do it's really good - see below right)!  There is also plenty of seating if you want to share a tray of meat cuts, cheese, antipasta style veggies etc plus bread and a carafe of the house red or a draft Moretti.  Open through the afternoon - a good thing to remember when you miss the 2pm closing time of too many restaurant kitchens in this region .  They have now (2007) extended the front balcony considerably, making room for less crowded outdoor seating, and they also stay open later into the evening - and of course the prices have gone up!


Photo: Nick Fletcher


Ristorante l'Astronave,


C Tue?,


??? - when we drove past in 2006, the old building seemed to have been replaced, and there was no restaurant sign - but it could well have moved nearby  .....


If it's "real meat" you're after, turn right immediately after the Bar dell'Orso and head for Scorgiano and l'Astronave (signposted) - the name means spaceship, but the place is more reminiscent of an old "working men's club" (in a one shop village!).   Pop in for lunch and join dozens of local workers hoeing in to large steaks washed down with bottles of red in the large hall.  Apparently the place has the inside running on a very good meat supplier (one of the owners!)  - whatever the meat source, both the ambience and its quality make l'Astronave worth a visit!  The area around Scorgiano is also very attractive - rich rolling farmlands.

Ristorante la Legenda dei Frati,

Abbadia Isola

C? ,

0577 30 12 22

Down to the left as you face the old buildings of the Abbadia, which was a hospice and stopping off point on the via Francigena - the pilgrims' road to Rome.  Good reports of the restaurant, though we have not got there yet!

Ristorante Casolani,

Casole d'Elsa

C? ,

0577 948 734

Casole is one of the most interesting of the hill towns to the west of Siena.  This wine bar / restaurant is in the middle of the main drag opposite the many shielded old town hall.  In 2004 they offered a four course set menu for €20 (2004).  Good cucina and also a good cellar.  The large old church in Casole is well worth a visit for both history, architecture and art - the story of how it has changed over the years can be seen in the jig saw puzzle stone and brickwork of the west facade. The next door canonica has now been opened as a museum.

l'Antica Trattoria, Pz Arnolfo di Cambio, Colle val d'Elsa,

C Tuesday,

0577 92 37 47

Fra Gregory's favourite (Right: Enrico, the owner, listening to Gregory).  Located in the colonnaded central piazza in Colle val d'Elsa.  Outside eating in summer, but the art deco setting on the first floor - low vaulted ceilings finished in off-white wax (yes, wax) - is a much better environment to sample the food of this excellent restaurant. 


On our first visit it was all a hit - black truffled ravioli, roast partridge, the best Tiramisu ever (washed down with a cold Muscat from Sicily), and finally a Brunello grappa fortification before going out into the late night square with the November mist swirling around and the little Christmas lights twinkling in the trees. 


On our last visit there was an equally impressive crustacean / fish selection, broad pasta with hare sauce and braised venison (no dolci - too full!).


Incidentally, Colle val d'Elsa is a major centre for the production of fine crystal glass -  if you're there in the daytime visit some of the many workshops and / or the museo del cristallo (cl Mon).


Arnolfo, Colle val d’Elsa,

C Tuesday,

0577 92 05 49

Expensive and the subject of mixed reports - in fact Dom P's view of the really highly priced and starred Italian restaurants generally is that they are an unrelaxing and problematic experience even before you get to the paying part.  Having said that, Arnolfos has retained a place in the  top twenty ("Tre Forcetta") of the Gambero Rosso guide to the top 2,000 restaurants in Italy for some time.

La Galleria, Poggibonsi

C Sunday,

0577 98 23 56

November 2002 saw our first visit to a genuine Poggibonsi ristorante.  Food quality excellent, service good and restaurant (recently refurbished) packed.  Particularly impressive was the mixed "pesce" starter - small serves of mussels, octupus, calamari, prawn, carpaccio of salmon, and very moorish deep fried little shrimps!  It's in a skungy arcade in Poggibonsi - here is a map to help!  Later reports says it remains top quality.

La Bottega del 30

C Tue & Wed,

0577 35 92 26

This time right down in the SE corner of the area (on the right as you face Villa a Sesta village).  Also a cooking school run by the Parisian chef Sonia Zacchei with fine food to match, it is attractively (Frenchly) different to your average Tuscan.   Intimate farmhouse dining rooms - a good place for a romantic (degustation) dinner for two.  Remembered by daughter of paradox as the first (and hopefully last) place she encountered cooked snails!




Link to Siena Photo Pages


Note that Siena's Market (impossible parking) Day is Wednesday

(and also that three of the restaurants below are closed on Mondays !)


Ristorante "La Finestra",

C Monday, 

0577 42093


Piazza del Mercato, 14 (on the back side of the Palazzo Pubblico, away from the Campo).  A Michelin (no star) recommendation.  2007 (November) - we finally made it here after several Monday blanks, and were rewarded with an excellent reasonably priced meal, even though it was a busy long weekend lunchtime.  La Finestra has the green awnings - just to the left of centre in the photo.

Antica Trattoria Papei,

C ?

0577 280894

Piazza del Mercato, 6 (on the back side of the Palazzo Pubblico, away from the Campo) - Our first visit here was October 2003 when we were rewarded amongst other things with a very superior Osso Buco, and a much more reasonable bill than the restaurants on the other side of the Campo would have presented.  A bit more trat than its ristorante neighbour, but both are equally excellent at what they do.  Papei has the brown awnings on the left of the photo.

Osteria Le Logge,

C Sun

0577 48013

Via del Porrione 33 (on the left down the road to the left of the Palazzo Pubblico as you face it).  We finally (Nov 2006) made it to Siena on a day the restaurant was open and it was not (quite) full.   Despite being small (six tables in the charismatic street-front room, though there is another large room upstairs), and with excellent (fully priced) food and friendly staff we felt that the place somehow lacked atmosphere.  In part this was because there was only one group of Italians dining, and worse, one large table was filled with Germanic gents (an overflow from a coach load upstairs) who spent the entire meal taking digital flash photos of each other amidst loud gutteral merriment. 


Our chick pea soup was excellent despite the flaccid floating ravioli.  For the main course we went for a roast breast of faraona (guinea fowl) - which had been cut off the raw fowl as one piece complete with skin and lightly roasted - moist and very tasty!  Gregory, whose has extremely good restaurant sense, says that this is his favourite ristorante Senese so we won't give up ... party of four for dinner maybe ?!


Il Ghibellino,

C Monday,

0577 288079

At the Baptistery end of via dei Pellegrini  (No 26) - used to be an attractive atmosphere with good traditional food aimed at Italian weekday lunchers.  However as of 2006 it has become much more touristy, the prices have gone up and the food quality has declined.  Which is why we have moved on to the restaurants in the Piazza del Mercato!

Al Mangia,

0577 281121

Maybe the best, probably the most expensive, on the Campo, but in truth none of the Campo eateries compare with the off-Campo places for food or service (and credit card scamming is not unknown).  Much better value, if you really want a place at the camposide, is to go to the University side (near via del Porrione), have a pizza and pay cash!

Trattoria Botteganova,

C Mon,

0577 284230

Michelin one starer universally recommended. On the outskirts - Via Chiantigiana 29 - "cheaper at lunch!" is the word.


Food Shops, Markets, Festivals and Experiences

Sienese food shops


Siena Market Day


(don't even think of trying to park!)

There's a lot of choice, here's just three .........


Vini e Vizi - La Bottega di Andrea - at Via Montanani, 9 - which is on the main drag down which most visitors approach the Campo, and located quite close but on the other side of the street to the gothic facaded head office of the Monte dei Paschi bank.  Quality quality quality  ... wine, cheese, prosciutto crudo, etc, and Marco, our good friend who runs it, will give you the best advice around !  (open in Summer only)


The Consorzio Agrario Provinciale di Siena have a supermarket style shop with a complete selection of wines, sweet stuff and meats (and many other foods) in via Pianiciani near the post office.


"Nannini" in Banchi di Sopra 26, near the Campo, is "the place" to go for the sweet biscuits and cakes for which Siena is famous.  In particular, the freshly made ricciarelli (soft almond and honey biscuits - right below) are to die for, as are the various panforti.  Worth visiting for the spectacle alone! 



Poggibonsi Coop





Known well to generations of Chianti apartment renters and Italians alike, the Poggibonsi Coop is the Mother of Tuscan Coops - nestling against the southbound exit of the 4 coursie motorway at Poggibonsi.  Open all day most days, the Coop, as you would expect in this food obsessed country, is not just any old big supermarket ....... to find out more visit her! 


Amongst other things this is a good place to go for wine - exactly the same stuff often at 10 to 30% less than smaller shops or vineyard cellar doors! 


In general they only sell local seasonal produce - no imported stuff from other countries. 


Most weeks there is a seasonal promotion going on - everything from mountains of cherries, through what we immediate-post-war Brits would call monster luncheon meat (right), to new olive oil.


And they are also the place to buy fish!




Poggibonsi Market Day


The biggest market in the region - Clothing, materials, food etc.  Go there mid morning and work your way through to the spit roast meat ("Porchetta") stall in the centre - then fight your way to the counter and compete in the no holds barred fun of getting the attention of one of the "carvers".  Don't just go for the standard chicken - experiment with one of the more exotic chucks, spare ribs, rolled roasts, sausages etc.  Then retire to a field somewhere with some bread and wine and enjoy!!  Don't even think of parking near the market area - go just over the river to the areas around the Coop, and walk back over the bridge and straight into one end of the market drag.


San Gimignano Market Day


Lots of leather stuff aimed at San Gimignano's tourist throng, but there is also (of course) a Porchetta and other food stalls.


Colle Val d'Elsa Market Day



Castellina Market Day



Panzano Market Day


Greve Market Day



Falorni, Greve



Macelleria estraordinaria in the most attractive Chianti town piazza.  Anything remotely connected with a pig can be bought there in any quantity!  They also have a good selection of Chianti wines.



Castello di Volpaia, Volpaia (North of Radda)

Winery and olive press visits 0577 738066 followed by a micro (or ml) wine tasting. 

Winter Food Festivals

Including the truffle festivals at San Miniato and San Giovanni d'Asso (which embrace also the new season's olive oil and wines together with honey and jams, pecorino cheeses, pasteries and cured hams) and Alba in Piemonte.  Share the greatest Italian passion (eating) with Italians - the tourists are safely back home by now!  And if you are feeling like travel, go to Alba in October for the best white truffles and red wine in Italy.

Olive Oil

The new olive oil appears in November each year.  Get it cold pressed (first pressing) and unfiltered.  "Extra Virgin" means low acidity.


An internet foodie site founded on the famous Gambero Rosso (red prawn) food magazine and guide (Italy's Michelin).  There is now also a Gambero Rosso satellite TV channel bringing you food stuff 24x7x365 (only in Italy .....).  And don't forget the Gambero Rosso restaurant (supposedly unconnected, and rumoured to be the best in Italy) near Livorno.


The slow food movement was founded by Carlo Petrini to protest against the establishment of a McDonalds at the foot of the Spanish Steps in Rome, and has an office in Greve in Chianti - the leader of the "slow city" association (who have slow lunch meetings to discuss slow strategies).  It is now run from Bra (in Piemonte) and has got tens of thousands of members worldwide, supported by various slow activities and products and a good, if slow, website. 


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