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INTRODUCTION TO MONASTIC REFORM AND THE PARADOXPLACE CISTERCIAN HISTORY AND PHOTO PAGES
Links to Other Paradoxplace Insight Pages
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Cistercian Abbey of Noirlac (Central France)
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Introduction by Adrian Fletcher (aka "Dom Paradox")
I had never heard of the Cistercians, or indeed mindfully looked at any monastery or abbey, until I visited the ruins of the Abbey of San Galgano during my first extended stay in Tuscany in 2000. Even then, the purpose of the trip was to see the "sword in the rock" (which probably gave rise to part of the English Authurian mythology) rather than the abbey. Then the bookshop yielded a book about the Cistercian movement, and the journey had started!
Since then I have been fortunate to be able to visit and photograph 3 or 4 dozen Cistercian Abbeys, Monasteries and Nunneries in Italy, France, Spain, Portugal and Britain (the latter sadly all ruins). The abbeys and monastery buildings (especially the Churches, Chapter Houses and Refectories) are mostly beautiful, and in some cases sublime - an architecture of simplicity, light and perfect proportionality (try Noirlac (above) or Fontenay to experience the original French Cistercian style). They are also usually in interesting locations and always adjacent to a running river (fresh monkly water from upstream, dirty ex-monkly waste sent downstream) preferably on the south side of the church.
As Romanesque migrated into Gothic, the beauty of simple lines was sustained with a more vertical but still simple proportionality - for example Alcobaça (Portugal) and Santes Creus (Spain) .
Luckily present day monastic explorers can also reap the rewards of huge expenditures on restoration projects since the end of the Second World War (see for example Rueda, recently the recipient of a no expenses spared restoration and hotel project by the government of Aragon).
Cistercian Monks and Abbeys first appeared on the European scene around 1100 (just after the First Crusade). Their first abbey (no longer there) was built at Cîteaux (latin Cistercium, hence "Cistercian") near Nuits-Saint-Georges in Burgundy.
Over the next two hundred years the Cistercians were responsible for building hundreds of abbeys in places they made into the most beautiful in Europe. They became the monastic movement of choice of the high Middle Ages, before the Black Death of 1348 killed off over half the population of Europe and brought everything to a juddering halt (including the supply of men for the Cistercians' Lay Brother workforce) .
There was much more to the the Cistercians than being monks and abbey builders at the centre of High Medieval European life. From the outset the Order had its own international governance agreement, 800 years before the term was invented by international accountants. During their two hundred years in the sun they were the only monastic order to directly manage and work their lands (as opposed to renting them out), and alone amongst the monastic orders, they were also responsible for significant advances in land and animal management (particularly wool production), inland fisheries, and civil engineering (particularly water (power) management and swamp draining).
In France they pioneered the iron smelting industry (the Abbey of Fontenay contained the first pneumatic hammer), in Italy as well as pioneering Italian Gothic at San Galgano, they ran the treasury of Siena, the most successful early City Republic (and did its plumbing as well), in England they turned the uninhabited, barren and unwanted Yorkshire moors and Welsh Borders into great wool production areas, and they invented (and suffered from) forward selling of wool. None of the other orders had this focus on productive technology and innovation, and it's interesting to bear this in mind when you visit their abbeys, because there is very little discussion of this distinguishing characteristic in the literature you will read.
All this and more slowly became clearer to me as I found and visited new Cistercian Abbeys, and learned about their life and history and the history of the Order itself (improvement in guide book quality is another major feature benefiting today's traveller). This journey remains a fascinating work in progress - one of the several interesting threads that links my wanderings and reveals new out of the way places.
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Corpus Domini flower tapestry in the classic brick Cistercian Abbey of Chiaravalle della Colomba near Piacenza in Emilia-Romagna |
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For other Paradoxplace links visit the home page
All original material © Adrian Fletcher 2000-2013 - The contents may not be hotlinked, or reproduced without permission
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