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PARADOXPLACE CHURCHES OF ROME         TRASTEVERE  PAGES

 

SANTA MARIA IN TRASTEVERE

 

 

 

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The Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere faces west - so to photograph the facade bathed in sunshine you need to get there in the morning rather than evening (see clock for proof).

Pope Innocent II ( ?? - 1130 - 1143) ordered the building of the present Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere in the mid 1100s. 

 

 

 

 

 

The rich apse mosaic dates from 1140 and includes a portrait of Innocent II (far left, holding a model of the church).  On the top left is the angel of Matthew, next to which, hidden from camera, is the lion of Mark.  On the top right is John's eagle and next to him Luke's bull (detail below).

 

 

Left - Innocent II (photo from "The Papacy" by Paul Johnson)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Saturday mornings are always a fun time to wander the churches of Rome ...... dressed up Romans and switched on church lights

 

 

 

 

Santa Maria in Trastevere is a rich and warm place, a friendly space to be in even though there is a lot of monumental architecture around.

 

 

 

 

The tomb of Innocent II, whose remains were relocated from a fire gutted San Giovanni Laterano

 

 

 

 

 

 

On the wall of the Altemps Chapel to the left of the apse hangs a large painting of the Council of Trent (the "Council of the Counter Reformation"), which was kicked off by Farnese Pope Paul III in 1545.  Four more Popes were to occupy the throne of Saint Peter before the Council ended 18 years later in 1563, so the official artist had plenty of time to capture this scene. 

 

 

 

 

Early Christian headstone art in the porch of Santa Maria in Trastevere.  So much more informal, warm and attractive than its descendants.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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