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Paradoxplace Spain Photo & History Gallery Links Spanish & Portuguese Abbey, Monastery, Mosque and Cathedral Links
CATEDRAL DE SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA
Main Santiago de Compostela Page
About the Camino de Santiago and its Pilgrims Spanish Roads to Santiago de Compostela
Return to Paradoxplace Camino de Santiago / Camino Frances Photo and History Galleries
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In the 830s a wandering hermit named Pelagius discovered a tomb which was taken to be that of the Apostle James the Greater, and the rest is history! A small church was built to house the tomb but was destroyed by the awful al-Mansur on one of his rampages in 997. The dreadful little man then had Christian slaves carry the church bells from Compostela to the Great Mosque of Cordoba. 240 years later, in 1236, Fernando III ("The Saint"), King of León and Castile (1198 - 1217 (King of Castile) - 1230 (King of León) - 1252 (54)), probably another dreadful little man, captured Cordoba and had Muslim slaves carry the bells back to Santiago.
The present cathedral of Santiago de Compostela was under construction from 1060 for 150 years. Later (sadly in Paradox's view) the Facade and all but one of the Romanesque portals were "improved", but one of the joys of the church is that when you walk in you are greeted with uncluttered Romanesque, and it's not nearly as huge as you might think.
After nearly two days of rain and wind, things took a dramatic turn for the better in the nick of time for Dom P - above is the final evening view of the newly arrived sun on the famous 1700s facade of the Cathedral. Below are scenes from the previous days !
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The south side Puerta de las Platerias (Goldsmiths' Portal) is the only 1100s Romanesque portal left - and includes (below) our old friends Adam (with Spanish mo to match that of God) and Eve along with the waterproofed post pilgrims' Sunday mass throng (above). Also an interesting set of corbels.
A medieval students' challenge to university freshmen was to climb the steps two at a time - an impossible task as there are an odd number of steps.
LINK TO LOTS MORE PHOTOS OF THE PUERTA DE LAS PLATERIAS (GOLDSMITHS)
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Back in 2006 we were so focussed on the archivolt bas-reliefs of the Puerta de las Platerias that we completely failed to notice the corbels above - self beard pulling, mouth deforming, and lots of other things you can work out for yourselves - these are just 6 of the 16 corbels there. More photos.
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Above: The broad east end of the cathedral has two portals - the Royal Portal (on the left side of the photo, which is now where the book and memorabilia shop is), whilst further to the right St James (Pilgrim) stands (right) over the Puerta del Perdon (=forgiveness) - aka Puerta Santa.
Below: St James (Moor Slayer) was of course not so forgiving.
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Puerta del Perdon / Santa
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The north side of the cathedral and (below) a close-up of the clock tower.
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Sculptures in the main tympanum of the late 1100s Pórtico de la Gloria, inside the west facade doors and untouched by the later baroquing of the facade itself. If there are not too many people jostling around this shallow narthex, pause and have a closer look at the detail, particularly the outer ring of what you will see are instrument players .....
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In the centre it takes two to play a - what? Well luckily visitors to the Cathedral crypt will know the answer, as there is a magnificent display of reconstructions of the medieval instruments in the carvings. And the answer is that this instrument is an Organistrum, which looked like this ....
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and at the bottom of one of the late 1100s Pórtico de la Gloria entry portal columns ....
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Inside the doors there are three pleasant surprises - firstly you are unexpectedly (after the facade) in a classic clean-lined Romanesque space, secondly it's much more intimate (smaller) and friendly than words like "great pilgrimage cathedral" had led one to expect, and lastly the removal in earlier times of the old Romanesque choir (to the huge monastery of St Martin Pinario across the road) and the dismantling of the screen has revealed an attractive "full nave" vista which would previously have been blocked as it still is in most English cathedrals.
One thing that is not small is the incense burner - it's big (bottom right), suspended on a very thick rope from impressive iron arches spanning the crossing (right), and it looks and smells awesome when it is in full smoking swing up and down the transept.
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Relics of Sant Iago
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Surely the mother of all incense burners - guidebook photo
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La Corticela Church is now joined to the north transept of the cathedral, but was originally a separate little church whose origins, stretching back to the 900s, predate the cathedral itself. The tympanum over the entrance shows the Magi visiting Mary, Joseph and Jesus. To retain the symmetry of the main composition two of the three Magi, Caspar and Balthazar (and their nags) have been squeezed out onto the otherwise unpeopled archivolt, then flattened by flash because the lighting was so bad!.
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Polychrome granite tympanum - the Visit of the Magi - second quarter 1300s - originally in the chapel of Doña Leonor and now in the cathedral museum.
Polychrome granite statue - Saint James as King - mid 1200s, now in the cathedral museum.
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The tomb effigy of King Fernando II of Leon, d1188
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The cathedral has an elegant though not warm cloister. It is part of the area that one has to pay to get into, and maybe this explains the almost complete absence of people by comparison with the free access areas.
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Bird life in the crypt
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More photos of the Romanesque Puerta de las Platerias
Back to main Santiago de Compostela page
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For other Paradoxplace links visit the home page
All original material © Adrian Fletcher 2000-10 - The contents may not be hotlinked, or reproduced without permission.
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