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Paradoxplace Spain Photo & History Gallery Links Spanish & Portuguese Abbey, Monastery, Mosque and Cathedral Links
SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA
About the Camino de Santiago and its Pilgrims Spanish Roads to Santiago de Compostela Return to Camino de Santiago / Camino Frances Photo and History Galleries
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After nearly two days of rain and wind, things took a dramatic turn for the better in the nick of time for Dom P - above is the (final) evening view of the newly arrived sun on the famous 1700s facade of the Cathedral. Sadly, unlike the interior, none of the old Romanesque facade is left. |
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The south side Puerta de las Platerias (Goldsmiths' Portal) is the only 1100s Romanesque portal left - and includes our old friends Adam (here with Spanish moustache) and Eve (below) along with the waterproofed post pilgrims' Sunday mass throng. A medieval students' challenge to university freshmen was to climb the steps two at a time - an impossible task as there are an odd number of steps. |
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Above: The Royal Portal (on the left side) at the east end of the cathedral, whilst further to the right St James (Pilgrim) stands over the Puerta del Perdon (forgiveness - right). St James (Moor Slayer) was of course not so forgiving. |
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The north side of the cathedral
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Sculptures in the main tympanum of the late 1100s Pórtico de la Gloria. If there are not too many people jostling around this fairly shallow narthex, pause and have a closer look at the detail, particularly the outer ring of what you will see are instrument players .....
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In the centre it takes two to play a - what? Well luckily visitors to the Cathedral crypt will know the answer, as there is a magnificent display of reconstructions of the medieval instruments in the carvings. And the answer is that this instrument is an Organistrum, which looked like this ....
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and at the bottom of one of the late 1100s Pórtico de la Gloria entry portal columns ....
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Dom P of course does have a few hundred more cathedral photos - all in good time, lunch first .....
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Inside the doors there are three pleasant surprises - firstly you are unexpectedly (after the facade) in a classic clean-lined Romanesque space, secondly it's much more intimate (smaller) than words like "great pilgrimage cathedral" had led one to expect, and lastly the removal in earlier times of the old Romanesque choir (to the huge monastery of St Martin Pinario across the road) and the dismantling of the screen has revealed an attractive "full nave" vista which would previously have been blocked as it still is in most English cathedrals.
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Entry to La Cortecella Church, the oldest part of the cathedral
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La Casa del Buen Pulpo
A plate of Buen Pulpo Gallego - boiled octopus garnished with oil and cayenne pepper - in Bar Los Sobrinos del Padre - "La Casa del Buen Pulpo" - run by Juan Masejo Rey and his son (also Juan) - dad shown temporarily without cigarette and complete with "pencil on marble" tablet bill computational technology. Note also the ceramic "wine glass" - another local tradition. Closed Monday.
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Restaurante Marisqueria Fornos
For the "night out" with outstanding fish, shell fish, crustaceans and wine and a more significant bill, go to the Restaurante Marisqueria Fornos which is to be found at Hórreo, 24 - Bajo y Plaza de Galicia, No 3 (Tel 981 56 57 21) and is probably the top seafood restaurant around - try the scallops in a garlic sauce (not just boring garlic butter) and ....... over to you!
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O Dezaseis (Rua San Pedro 16, tel 981 56 48 80 - closed Sunday) is a large very popular medium priced restaurant which specializes in the local cuisine - particularly wholesome soups and casseroles!! Try for example garlicky pigs' trotter soup with turnip tops, potatoes, and possibly toast and an egg floater! The restaurant's size and popularity do not detract al all from the food or service quality.
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Hotel Altair / Hotel Costa Vella
The Bar Los Sobrinos del Padre is just down the road from Dom P's outstanding hotel ( The Hotel Altair tel 981 55 47 12), a newly opened hotel in an old stone walled building that has been stripped out and superbly rebuilt with extensive use of wood and modern fittings (and incorporating free wi-fi).
The Altair and the nearby Costa Vella hotel (tel 981 56 95 30) are owned and run with panache by a sister and brother team - members of the Liñares family.
The hotels are relatively easy to drive up to (and will be even easier when they put a better map on their web site) and are, we think, optimally located on the (best) side of the traffic free centre of this attractive little town, just a five minute walk away from the cathedral.
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Links to other Paradoxplace pages
All original material © Adrian Fletcher 2000-08 - The contents may not be hotlinked, or reproduced without permission.
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