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LA RIOJA

 

SAN MILLÁN DE LA COGOLLA

MONASTERIES OF SUSO (TOP OF HILL) & YUSO (BOTTOM)

MONASTERY OF VALVANERA

SIERRA DE LA DEMANDA

 

Return to Camino de Santiago / Camino Frances Photo and History Galleries

 

Map of the Camino de Compostela / Camino Frances - from the excellent MSM book "The Roads to Santiago de Compostella" 

 

Yuso & Suso are near San Millán de la Cogolla

Valverna and the Sierra are to the south

Much repaired old bridge over the Rio Oja at Santo Domingo de la Calzada - gateway to San Millan de la Cogolla and Canas

Link to photos of the Cistercian Nunnery of Santa Maria del Salvador at Cañas

 

The recently restored Mozarabic church of the monastery of Suso - located in the wooded hills where San Millán de la Cogolla (473 -  574 (101)) set up monastic shop.  In the late 900s the awful Al-Mansur fired the lot (even though the monastery had lived peacefully within the earlier Muslim rule in the Iberian Peninsular), but it was rebuilt, only to be fired again by the equally awful Black Prince, briefly distracted from burning down France in the 1360s, which event prompted the building of a large slab of a monastery called Yuso at the bottom of the hill (photo below below below).

 

 

Pilgrims were flocking to the tomb of San Millán de la Cogolla long before the name "Compostella" had been invented in the late 800s, and it was also at Yuso in the mid 1000s that the Castillian language (later to morph into Spanish) first appeared in written form.

 

UNESCO listing as a world cultural heritage site has led to the inevitable larger parking area for coaches etc, but we were clever enough to go there on a Monday, when everything is closed, and when it is possible to drive up Yuso (normally you have to get the inadequate small shuttle bus) and wander around outside - though the cost is missing the Mozarabic interior (but then Dom P had previously spent two hours as the only visitor to the other Mozarabic masterpiece San Miguel de Escalada ).

 

With no cloister photography or book purchases in prospect, we headed off south into the spectacular Sierra de la Demanda

The Monastery of Valverna is tucked high in  the hills just to the left of the cross above, but it was Monday there as well and the hotel, restaurant and gift shop were all closed and deserted.

Just after this the road quality deteriorated dramatically = no pics, but if this was the main park drag one could see how a donkey could be helpful

Church tower with offset clock - Barbadillo

 

 

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